Excursiones, aves, botanica, naturaleza, fotografía, rutas en Doñana.

Birding in Doñana since 1990

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Discovering Doñana.
Águila Imperial, 150.
21750-El Rocío. Spain

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  Welcome to Discovering Doñana Web Site  

If you are thinking of taking some nice holidays in one of the most interesting areas in Spain and would like to be guided around it, you will find some useful information on this pages

  Professional guiding for birders and for those who want to go a bit further

    We will help you to enjoy Doñana's Nature  

I'll be away and not running tours or answering emails or phone calls until the 15th of May due to the annual festival in El Rocío
Pájaros de DoñanaAlojamiento en Doñana, El Rocío.Vacaciones en Doñana

We are a Spanish registered company authorized by the administration of Doñana Natural Site

A country manor with almost 1,000 hectares of grounds, located just 3 km south of El Rocío and just next to the National Park. The manor house has around 30 double rooms and private villas. The complex also offers a beautiful traditional Arabic pool and a well looked-after lawn for the enjoyment of our guests.

 

 

 

    WHAT'S ON IN DOÑANA  

MAY 2nd

Just a few notes before leaving El Rocio for a few days due to the annual Festival.

Plenty of water in the marshes and birds all over, excellent time to visit Doñana. Good opportunities for Sandgrouse and numerous Pratincoles and Terns, including Gull-billed, Whiskered, Black and some White-winged around Caño Guadiamar; there are at least 2 female White-headed Duck and 1 male there.

We saw today 2 grown up Short-eared Owls chicks at Veta Zorrera, I will have to check when I am back if this species has ever bred in Doñana. We also saw an European Nightjar, a very uncommon migrant to Doñana, I just found it by chance when I was doing private things behind a bush next to the bridge of Caño Guadiamar. It was just seating on a stone next to the water, I thought it was a toad first. We had excellent views of it. Later in the day we saw a Red-necked Nightjar in flight next to the Guadalquivir River.

There has been a Western Reef Egret at Jose A. Valverde during the last few days, I saw it for the first time the day before yesterday; today it was still there.

Melodious and Olivaceous Warbler still passing. Several Crested Coots at Dehesa de Abajo. Short-toed Eagle passing through the marshes in good numbers.

Many Glossy Ibis, Purple Heron and Squaco Heron, in beautiful breeding plumage, all over the marshes and 2 Great White Egrets at least at Caño Guadiamar.

The two juvenile Spanish Imperial Eagles are still often seen on the eucalyptus at the far banks of the marshes in El Rocío.

 

APRIL 25th

Melodious Warblers are passing at last, we saw a couple of them at the northern marshes. On the way back to El Rocio we also found an Olivaceous Warbler singing from a Tamarisc near Puente de Ajolí. Garden Warblers passing now too.

Unexpectedly I found a Short-eared Owl rusting in a Tamarisc at Veta Zorrera, several of them spent a few weeks there at the end of the winter but the end of April is not the right time for them to be still here. I don't do that area often before sunset, the good time of the day to see them,  so there might be more than one.

We also found yesterday several Wheatears and a Whinchat still passing across the Hinojos Marshes. And several Short-toed Eagles, one of them extremely pale, at different places in the northern marshes.

 

APRIL 21st

Three Sacred Ibises seen this morning again next to El Rocío. Apart from that I saw today a rare migrant to Doñana, a Wood Warbler, it was at La Rocina, in a large pine next to the visitor centre. We saw there also several Garden Warblers, the first of the season for me.

Later in the morning I found the first Olivaceous Warbler of the season and the 2 first Golden Orioles, all at the pond next to Cortijo del Quema.

 

APRIL 18th

Mobbing stones and cows

Intense activity all around, everyone is busy with breeding tasks, from Partridges, Kites, Serins and Lynx in the forests to Horses, Larks, Herons and Pratincoles in the marshes. Skies are still full with Swifts, Martins and Swallows passing and many small waders are still using the shallow waters in the marshes as the ideal stopover spot. Coots sat on their cones of reeds are common along Caño Guadiamar as well as Squaco Herons in breeding plumage.

No sings of Sacred Ibis in the last few days. Many are happy for that, they don't have a very good reputation in the conservationist European community. To know about the species you can read this excellent report: http://www.birdingworld.co.uk/images/SacredIbises.pdf

On Wednesday we found an unexpected concentration of Great White Egrets at Entremuros, north of Casa Bombas. We counted around 20 individuals and one was showing the typical dark beak of the breeding plumage. They are usual winter visitors to Doñana but they haven't been reported to breed here for a long time and only occasionally. We found 2 today at Caño Guadiamar, not far from the breeding colony of Jose A. Valverde and one of them had also a dark beak. By the way, the colony is timing with life, thousand of Egrets, Herons and Ibises come and go restless.

Also on Wednesday, we stopped at the Dehesa de Pilas to see some Stone Curlews. This birds gather by hundreds in the winter to rust in a particular spot of the marshes  so it is not difficult to see them if you know where they are, but now in Spring the split in pairs and it is a hard job to find them. Luckily if you find a pair you are very likely to see them there again because they are probably breeding in that particular plot of meadow. So my clients that day benefited from my search on previous days and had excellent views of a male standing up next to a small bush and a female sat on the nest a few meters away. Dehesa de Pilas is a large extension of common land used to graze livestock, horses and cows mainly and that day there was a big herd of cows sharing the same field with our couple of Stone Curlew. I always wondered how ground nesting birds manage to succeed in such a difficult conditions; how do they avoid cattle to step over their nests and spoiled their breeding efforts. Or they don't, is it just a matter of luck?

Well, we found out that day. We watched through our telescopes how an enormous white and brown cow walked heavily towards the female Stone Curlew; we all imagined the disaster. When there was just a couple of meters between them, 2 short steps for the big cow, the immobile small stone with yellow eyes jumped from its nest wings open and faced the monster during a fraction of a second, enough to make it turn aside and change direction away from the nest. Easy and effective we thought. Small Larks must have taught horses in the marshes to follow the same path when walking through.

 

APRIL 11th

Happy frogs, happy me

Frogs must be really happy to see the marshes flooded again. I really enjoyed the day today, a bit windy but the marshes looked beautiful under the sunlight.

I am not showing this picture to attract more clients for the season because I am virtually fully booked for the whole spring but just to share with you the views of the paradise where Doñana's frogs live and encourage you to visit this wonder of nature.

We had excellent views of Pintail Sandgrouse today, first at Dehesa de Pilas, along with a pair of Stone Curlews, and then at the Hinojos Marshes, just on the other side of the road where I took this picture from. Later we had very good views of two juvenile Spanish Imperial Eagles near Cancela de la Escupidera. We also found two Tenmick's Stint well camouflaged among hundreds of other small waders at Marisma de Hinojos.

There are not 9 but 10 Sacred Ibis at El Rocio, plus a Bald Ibis, at the open fields east of the village.

 

APRIL 10th

As expected, the rain we have had last two days have made a lot of good to the Park. The short way from El Rocío to the marshes along the Raya Real is blocked. The marshes look at their best again, flooded with a good level of water. Many thousand small waders were passing today across the Hinojos Marshes: Curlew Sandpiper, Dunlin, Ringed Plovers and Little Ringed Plovers, some Grey Plovers, Greenshank, Redshank and Ruff and a  few Little Stint.

We had scattered showers, strong winds and sunny spells today; the day started with Cirl Bunting at Coto del Rey and a couple of Black-shouldered Kites at Vado del Quema. Kept going with many Gull-billed and Whiskered Terns and 1 Black Tern at Dehesa de Abajo; a couple of Water Pipits at Vado de Don Simón;  Short-toed, Lesser Short-toed Larks and Calandra Larks at the National Park marshes; Great Spotted Cuckoo and Spanish Imperial Eagle near Veta Zorrera; Collared Pratincoles all over; Glossy Ibis and Purple Heron building nests at Jose A. Valverde; a few Squacco Heron in breeding plumage and 3 Great White Egrets at Caño Guadiamar; a pair of Stone Curlews at Dehesa de Pilas. And we ended up the day with 9 Sacred Ibis at the fields east of El Rocío, the highest number of this species I have ever seen together in Doñana.

 

APRIL 4th

Temperatures have been very high today, over 25º C but they will low down from Monday next week, when some rain is expected . The more we get the better for the marshes. Migration keeps going and Whiskered and Gull-billed Terns are passing through along with Subalpine, Sedge, and Willow Warblers. I have seen today the first Whinchat and Whitethroat of the season a some more Wheatears and Redstarts.

There are a few Great-spotted Cuckoos around Puente del Ajolí and some more at Veta Zorrera. I have seen today the first 2 Common Cuckoos in the Park despite of having heard a couple before but not seen any until today. Pintail Sandgrouse have been seen very well in the last few days in the fields south of the bridge over Caño Guadiamar.

We found 2 second year Black Storks at the left edge of Entremuros and several Great White Egrets in the northern marshes. A Black Vulture was seen yesterday in the Hinojos Marshes and several Garganey today at Cerrado Garrido.

The access along the Raya Real has been restricted due to the Iberian Lynx breeding season and even authorized companies have been asked not to even stop along several kilometres on that route. Rangers patrol the area all day up and down. All the efforts are few to preserve this scarce wild cat.

 

MARCH 30th

Bee-eaters passing through in waves. Hundreds of Collared Pratincoles fly in dense flocks over El Rocío marshes, many can also be seen at Marisma de Hinojos and Dehesa de Pilas. Nightingales can already be heard at Puente del Ajolí. Short-eared Owls can still be seen hunting over the open fields next to the northern edge of the marshes. Great-crested Cuckoo is still around Veta Zorrera but it will not stay for much longer.

Short-toed Larks are becoming common along the marshes; Willow and Sedge Warblers are still passing. Great Reed Warblers are arriving at Caño Guadiamar and Savi's Warblers sing perching on the reeds there.

A pair of Crested Coots, one uncollared, was seen on Friday at Dehesa de Abajo.

 

MARCH 23rd

The first Short-toed Larks are back in the marshes, we saw some near Casa Bombas. The first Great Reed Warbler and a few Savi's Warblers at the bridge over Caño Guadiamar and several Purple Herons along the Caño. Many Red-crested Pochard there too.

There are still some Hen Harriers around and some Montague's Harriers back from Africa. Sedge, Willow and Subalpine Warbler still passing, along with thousand of Martins, Swallows and Swifts of both kinds. We also saw a Tenmick's Stint at Lucio del Lobo and a large flock of Collared Pratincoles at Dehesa de Pilas.

 

MARCH 22nd

New species coming in every day. Today we saw the first Bee-eaters flying over Dehesa de Abajo, just over a dozen of them, a very early arrival this year, and the first Gull-billed Terns over a rice field south of Isla Mayor, about 20 of them. A Black Stork was spotted at the left banks of Entremuros near Casa Bombas. We also saw today another Wryneck near Vado del Quema, a male White-headed Duck at Dehesa de Abajo reservoir and a Red-knobbed Coot with no collar there too. There are around 25 Tufted Duck, still, at the small lagoon north of Cortijo de Quema.

No more Sacred Ibis seen today away from El Rocío.

 

MARCH 21st

The first Collared Pratincoles have arrived in Doñana, there is a flock of about a hundred of them at El Rocio marshes, along with a good number of Whiskered Terns and a few Garganey. One Little Bittern has also been spotted there and several Sacred Ibis, up to 6; I have been out of Doñana for the last 6 days so I can only report what I have been told. We only saw one today at the open fields east of El Rocío.

We also found a Wryneck displaying at Arroyo del Algarbe.

 

MARCH 6th

A bright and sunny but windy and cold day. The last wintering birds share wires, branches and patches of sky and water with the first breeding birds. A Black Redstart next to the first Woodchat Shrike of the season on the top wire of a fence near Palacio del Rey, a Hen Harrier flying over the same open field as a Black Kite at Veta Zorrera and the last Greylag Geese and Cranes feeding near a couple of passing Garganeys at Lucio del Lobo.

Not many waders around any more, we explored a large extension or rice fields around Isla Mayor to find only a few flooded fields with some Kentish and Ringed Plovers, 4 Snipe and a few Greenshanks in Cantarita. We found the best fields for waders next to Dehesa de Abajo reservoir where we found one Tenmick's Stint mixed with a small group of Little Ringed Plovers and Litlle Stint.

A group of about 20 Garganeys at La Madre and several Squaco Herons. A Baillon's Crake has been spotted at Jose Antonio Valverde.

Glad to announce the pair of Spanish Imperial Eagles are back at their usual nesting spot in the rice fields. The female was sat on the nest and the male perched on a near branch, we had excellent views of it.

 

FEBRUARY 27th

The marshes look beautiful these days; the rain we had last week have made a lot of good to the park in general and the marshland in particular. The plains are mostly flooded and start to green up. The white of wild narcissus in the forests and the pink of Stork's Bill in the meadows dominate the landscape.

Spanish Imperil Eagles still show well along the northern edge of the marshes, along with the first Short-toed Eagles and Black Kites. Magpies try to chase Great Spotted Cuckoos away from their nests and Black-shouldered Kites hover elegant over the marshes. There are still hundreds of Geese and many Cranes trying to choose the best day to go.

Today we saw the first Garganey and the first Sedge Warbler of the season, both at Jose Antonio Valverde visitor centre. At Lucio del Lobo there are large flocks of Shoveler and Red-crested Pochard, a good number of Pintail and Black-tailed Godwit, dozens of Black-winged Stilts and Avocets.

FEBRUARY 20th

Today we had some mist in the early morning, clouds and sunshine around midday and some heavy showers after it. An American lady and I spent the day birding around in the northern forests and marshes. A good variety of species as usually but a few things to emphasize. 

We saw not only one but two Wheatears today around Cancela de la Escupidera, that means that they are passing through already. Two Yellow Wags instead or one as well and a good number of Sand Martins around José A. Valverde V.C.

Today I saw the first Subaplpine Warbler this year, a beautiful male. 

We missed them yesterday but we had today one juvenile Spanish Imperial Eagle from the Raya Real near Palacio del Rey sat on a tree early in the morning and two more flying over Matasgordas a bit later.

Back in the forest we found 4 black-kite like raptors sat on a tree. After looking at them with my binoculars I realized that one of them was extremely pale on its head and body, a probable juvenile, and another looked like a Red Kite because of the rufous body, but looking at the other features, tale, silhouette and size it was definitely nothing more than a Black Kite too. I was amazed by the unusual colorations of the birds in that interesting group of Black Kites, shame I did not have that day the camera with me.

 

FEBRUARY 19th

After today's tour I can tell you that Short-eared Owls are still near Huerta Tejada, we counted 9 there today but I have to tell you that last Sunday, around the same time of the day, I was not able to see one. It rained last night so they were all drying their wings out in the sunshine. 

A good number of Griffon Vultures were doing the same with their wings open sat on trees along the edge of Matasgordas cork oak wood; also a couple of wet Black Kites, several pairs of Black-shouldered Kites, a male Hen Harrier and several Great-spotted Cuckoos at Veta Zorrera, in the restricted northern route of the National Park, as well as an unusual for the spot, Black Stork

At Cancela de la Escupidera we saw again the Northern Whetear that has stayed around for the whole winter, a small flock of Pin-tailed Sandgrouse grazing next to a large group of Greylag Geese and the first Yellow Wagtail of the season just back from Africa. 

Skylarks, Calandra Larks, Crested Larks and Lesser Short-toed Larks are common in the Hinojos Marshes, we saw many today. Large mixed flocks of Lapwings and Golden Plovers fill the marshes. One Ruff with them and several Greenshanks and Green Sandpipers along the road to Jose Antonio Valverde Visitor Centre.  

A female Peregrine chasing a Marsh Harrier near Lucio del Lobo and many Shoveler, Pintail, Common Teal, Mallard, Red-crested Pochard, Black-tailed Godwit, Avocet, Black-winged Stilt on the water, among others. On the way to Huerta Tejada there are still many Common Cranes, several Great White Egrets, dozens of Common Kestrels and small numbers of Stone Curlews if your eye sight is good. 

Corn Bunting, Stonechat, Goldfinch, Serin, Linnet, Greenfinch went to my client’s day bird list too. Back in the forest we added Azure-winged Magpie, Little Owl, Booted Eagle, Sardinian Warbler, Dartford Warbler and Great-spotted Woodpecker to the list. 

The total number of species after only 6 hours went up to 94.

 

FEBRUARY 17th

Reporting a Bald Ibis in Doñana: an adult from the Eremita Project, carried out by the Jerez Zoobotanic to reintroduce the species in south Spain, was seen yesterday near the country house of Hato Blanco Viejo feeding on a pasture field with a group of Cattle Egrets. It carries several rings, the white one with the number RO2.

Crested Coot can be found at the marshes next to El Rocío and at Dehesa de Abajo reservoir where we also saw today the first Red-rumped Swallow this year, the Sacred Ibis is still there too. Several junvenile Spanish Imperial Eagle are still moving around the edge of the northern marshes near Cancela de la Escupidera.

The first Black Kite are back from Africa and the first Booted Eagle are also reported around Matasgordas. Great-crested Cuckoo are also as usually in Veta Zorrera.

Cranes and Geese are already going back north and waders passing through.

It's raining and more rain is coming in the next few days.

 

JANUARY 29th

A few unexpected sightings today: a juvenile Osprey in the rice fields near Dehesa de Abajo, a group of about 15 Tufted Ducks in the lagoon next to the Stork colony and also there a Sacred Ibis on one of the islands.

 

JANUARY 27th

Today I meet two Spanish couples from Jerez at the petrol station in El Rocío for a half day tour in the Park. While we introduced each other I was wondering where a beautiful fragrance in the air was coming from. I asked them if the could smell it but they couldn't. Now I am recalling that moment I can nearly feel it again. It was a sweet and delicate smell that filled my nose suddenly. I asked the two women if they were using some kind of perfume but they were not. A local man wearing a typical borsalino cap with a pattern of small green squares was using the car washer so I thought: maybe he has chosen the expensive option and it includes some kind of fancy detergent. I took it as the possible answer. But a little while later, we stopped at Coto del Rey to look at some mammal tracks on the sand and there it was again. Better than any perfume I could remember. Jean-Baptiste Grenouille, the main character of "Perfume: The Story of a Murderer", the novel by Patrick Süskind, would have enjoyed it very much. I asked them again if they were really not using any perfume, that smell had to come from somewhere. Only one of the woman could now feel it a bit. Jose Juan, one of the men of the group, could not smell it but he remembered that he had seen a peach plantation in blossom not far from El Rocío that morning. I knew about that plantation north of the village and the wind was blowing form the north so there it was the answer. I was amazed by the simple but unexpected explanation for that great fragrance that made that day different from any other to me.

A short report to let you know that there are already some Common Swallow and House Martin around the Mother of the Marshes in El Rocío; a few Squacco Heron can also be seen there. Several  Spotted Eagles have been seen in the area this winter; I saw last one at the road from La Rocina to Acebron on the 25th. Several immature Spanish Imperial Eagle are still around the Cancela de la Escupidera at Marisma de Hinojos and several pairs of Black-shouldered Kites around Veta Zorrera. This year there are only a couple of Great Crested Cuckoo there yet. Short-eared Owl can still be seen near Huerta Tejada, specially before sunset, and Stone Curlews are still there too.

2008 JANUARY 10th

I start a new year with my thanks for all birdwatchers and nature lovers that have visited Doñana and those still to come wishing them a very successful 2008 full of enjoyable days, good luck for everybody.

Spring is around the corner so the first flowers are coming out these days: Peperworts fill the olive groves, Sea Squill and Field Madder decorate the side roads and the first Stork's Bill the forests edges and meadows.

The Mother of the Marshes, a large lagoon next to the village of El Rocío, is teeming with life. Mallard, Shoveler, Pintail, Pochard, Greylang Goose, Coot, Spoonbill, Flamingo, Herons, Ibis and Egrets abound. It's one of the few places to try the Squacco Heron this year and a good one to try the Crested Coot. In the near La Rocina Stream a couple of Bittern have been seen recently.

In the pine forests of Coto del Rey a male Lynx from Sierra Morena is being relocated to restore partially the situation derived from the 11 animals died during the outbreak of Feline Leukemia (FeLV) that affected the local Lynx population in the last few years. They will keep it within a 6 hectare fenced and monitored plot until is adapted to the new conditions. Blackaps and Robins are specially active and noisy; their calls along with those of Great, Crested and Blue Tits, Treecrepers, Chaffinch, Blackbird, Wren, Sardinian and Cetti's Warbler, Wood Pigeon and Woodpeckers fill the forests. They can also feel Spring coming.

Great Spotted Cuckoo is back, the first can be seen at Veta Zorrera, the sandy island near the edge of the northern marshes. First winter young Spanish Imperial Eagle have been showing very well in this area in the last few weeks. We saw very well today a nice adult flying over Caño Guadiamar being mobbed by two Buzzards. Several pairs of Black-shouldered Kite can also be found around the northern edge of the marshes and Hen Harrier is also easy these days. Red Kites and Common Kestrels are specially common now in the winter. We also saw today an unexpected Short-toed Eagle hovering over this area, they are rare but not strange in winter time.

A bit further, in the Hinojos Marshes, several thousand geese graze on the still dry fields of the wet plains. A group of about 10 Dotterel have chosen these fields to winter this year, sharing the area with Pintailed Sandgrouse and hundreds of Calandra Larks and White Wagtail. Today we saw one of the rare Pied Wagtail next to Caño Guadiamar. For the first time since I can remember we have a Wheatear wintering in the marshes; a new sign of the Global warming? Short-toed Lark and Skylark are also common in the marshes and Crested Lark also shows signs of feeling Spring coming.

Lapwing and Golden Plover are the commonest waders in the marshes, most of the other can be found in the rice field area north of the Park. Blue Throat and Penduline Tit show themselves well normally around the bridge over the Caño Guadiamar along with Black-winged Stilt, Avocet, Purple Swamp-hen, Green Sandpiper, Flamingo and Black Stork. Glossy Ibis have just started to arrive in the colony around the Jose Antonio Valverde visitor centre.

A Peregrine here or there and groups of Cranes in the marshes around Lucio del Lobo. A bit further, near Huerta Tejada, can be found at their usual roost several hundred Stone Curlew and about a dozen Short-eared Owls. If you adventure yourself into the rice fields you may find some fields with large concentrations of waders including Grey and Golden Plover, 3 kind of Shanks, Black-tailed Godwit, Ruff, Ringed and Kentish Plover, Dunlin and Little Stint. The lagoon at Dehesa de Pilas is a very good spot for ducks, a couple of White-headed Duck were spotted there two days ago.

DECEMBER 6th

Today we had again a dry and sunny day with good visibility from early in the morning; the marshes are still just wet but not flooded. We saw again a Spanish Imperial Eagle sat on a cork oak tree at Matagordas and several Black-winged Kites in the same area. When we entered the marshes I stopped the car to check something big and dark perched on a low tree at the edge of the forest, it was a Black Vulture, uncommon but usual winter visitor to the area. It had been seen by Alex, my colleague, the previous day not far from there. A bit further down we found a small flock of some 11 Little Bustards, also usual winter visitor, and spotted a Merlin seating on a cow dung in the middle of the Hinojos Marshes near the Cancela de la Escupidera.

On the way back to El Rocío we found the Black Vulture seating on an old tree very close to the road, stopped the car and check it. It was a juvenile (black ruff and head, it takes some 6 years to get the adult plumage) with a yellow ring around the left leg (76C). A Griffon Vulture joined it and one of the clients took a picture with both, hopefully you will be able to see that picture soon here.

 

NOVEMBER 28th

We have seen today a Spanish Imperial Eagle sat on a cork oak tree at Matagordas and a Spotted Eagle, an uncommon but usual wintering species in Doñana, was eating first something on the ground and then set off and flew over Haton Ratón Rice Fields, this one was the first this season for me.

A very nice Ryneck has also been spotted at Jose Antonio Valverde Visitor Centre. This is an uncommon species in Doñana but its numbers increase with the wintering individuals, even though only a few of them are seen every year during our tours .

 

NOVEMBER 23rd

Exploring and learning
(An average Autumn full day tour)

I met Machteld and Geert at 8 o'clock at Puerta Doñana Guest House in El Rocío where they were staying since Wednesday. The sun was ready to rise over the top of the trees along the route through Coto del Rey Pine Woods. We had the whole day in front and the Dutch man and the Belgium woman wanted to see as much of the park as possible. They were not expert birdwatchers but willing to learn.

The couple of Little Owls living in the dead cork oak just passed the Puente del Ajolí shown themselves very well as usually. In that pour light of the early morning it was difficult to tell them apart from the grey bark of the tree unless they moved. Luckily for my two clients they did just enough to realise that the rounded piece of branch was actually the head of one of my little friends. Partridges, as many other birds, go now in groups; in this case of about 10 or 20. Robins could be heard all around and Common Chiffchaffs seen moving nervously in the bushes; both are common wintering species. Black Redstarts shown also easily coming up and down the metallic bars of the Park fence. A Common Buzzard seating on a dead branch of an old oak was waiting for the first rays of sunlight to warm up a bit and a couple of Ravens flew passed squawking loudly. We stopped the car by the fence and went out to watch over it at a small group of Fallow Deer eating acorns under the trees; a good male and two females still accompanied by their two young bucks which will remain with their mothers for about 18 months.

I stopped the car and turned off the engine several times along the way so Machteld and Geert could heard the songs of Serin, Sardinian Warbler, Great, Blue and Long tailed Tits, Chaffinch, Tree-creeper, Wren and Blackcap. You don't learn bird songs in a couple of hours but it is always useful to be told the differences between some of the easy ones; it takes years, I am still on it, but once you now them they turn into one of the most used tools of a bird guide. How many of you haven't had a good sight of a Cetti's Warbler? How many of you would not hesitate to identify its song? Knowing about bird songs opens you the doors to a new world the same as knowing about starts open your eyes to a new sky.

We stopped again at the usual view point over the marshes by the edge of the forest. From there we watched with enthusiasm the hunting techniques of a pair of Black-shouldered Kite not far from us. A male Hen Harrier flying low was taken by Geert for another Kite so I explained her that the Harrier was much bigger and used a very different hunting technique.  A large charm of several hundred Goldfinches set off from the thistle fields and group of about twenty Reed Deer would have a rest while keeping an eye on us.

We had had some rain at last at the beginning of the week after around one month and half of dry weather. Don't kill geese, eat radish! / Shooting in Doñana, no thanks.Although it was not enough to fill the marshes it had been very welcome for the population of Greylag Goose wintering in Doñana. That rain had soften the hard clay of the marshes so now they are able to dig out the tubers of the Red Nut Sedge and that also save them the journey to the rice fields in search of food. That is what they had been doing every morning until now. A dangerous trip because they have to fly over areas of the marshes included in the Natural Park where shooting Geese and ducks is allowed from the beginning of October to the end of January. It does not make much sense that they are save on one side of aKill geese, they taste good with potatoes, you bastards. F. Coves (the actual responsible of the regional environmental agency) out of Doñana fence and not on the other side, but that the way it is with hunting in Spain in general and Doñana in particular. It was a very nice show to see: endless flocks of squawking geese moving north east. The show is over but now we can see the flocks spread all over the Hinojos Marshes for the whole day. Skylarks, Crested Larks and Lesser Short-toed Larks are abundant in the wet marshes. White Wagtails, Stonechats, Linnets and mixed flocks of Goldfinch and Serin also abound along the roads. A very late Wheatear surprised me that day too. Red Kites and Common Kestrels are increasing their numbers and Griffon Vultures are seeing often  around the sheep which are giving birth these days; sights of Egyptian Vultures are not rare either. We did not see any Merlin that day but they are around, not common but seen most days.

A stop at the bridge over the Caño Guadiamar is always compulsory. From there we had good views of Purple Gallinule, Common Coot and Moorhen, White and Black Stork, Great White Egret, Grey Heron, Little and Cattle Egret, Green Sandpiper, Common Snipe, Greenshank, Common Redshank, Black-winged Still, Ring Plover and Little Ringed Plover, Common Pochard and Mallard, Marsh Harrier and a solitary female Peregrine sat on the wires. I put in practise my knowledge on bird songs to show Machteld and Geert a small group of Pintail Sandgrouse flying over. They normally sing only while flying and its characteristic short and repetitive note is easy to identify. It sounded week so they were obviously moving very high over our heads. I got to find them, not without effort, and show it to them, there were only 4 flying south at about 4 hundred meters of altitude with its usual quick wing beat.

A short and sharp call in the reeds attract my attention. I had a theory but was not sure. It was confirmed soon after when I saw the first White-spotted Bluethroat of the season (Red and White-spotted Bluethroats are scientifically confirmed to be just two different races of the same species). I saw it first from behind so I could not see the blue bib at all but the usual lifted tail, the white supercilium and its silhouette accused it. There are no other birds in the winter season with that kind of varied, melodic and loud song in that kind of habitat so if you know it you find them easy if they are around. The reddish red band across the tail is also a good tip if you just see something flying away from you along a ditch. But that sort of short alarm call was not familiar to me. I only see them in the area for a few months and it is not breeding season for them so they don't sing much after they arrive and choose a piece of the reed beds to live. I added that day a little note to my personal bird song list . There were several of them, maybe 5 or 6, all around the bridge, which were just arrived and still a sort of building territories and ranks. We enjoyed them for a while (with more or less blue around the chest) before moving to Jose Antonio Valverde Visitor Centre for a cup of coffee from were we saw a small flock of Flamingos, a few Avocets in flight and several Spoonbills.

The plan was having a drink and a couple of "tapas" at a bar in Isla Mayor and spend the rest of the day exploring around the rice fields. On the way there we had the chance to see several groups of Common Cranes grazing in the cereal fields north of the Park. Large flocks of Calandra Larks with their contrasted white bellies and black underwings performed their choreography before us and family groups of Zitting Cisticola zipped while flying ahead close to the vehicle.

We had Spinaches with chickpeas, fillets of Dusky Grouper and pig cheeks stewed. Men had a glass of Rioja and Geert one of local white wine. Two cups of coffee, total 22€, excellent value for our money. Well their money actually, I insisted on sharing the bill but they did not accept and paid it all.

After lunch I headed south towards Cantarita , the southernmost rice fields in the area but soon after we left the village I stopped to watch over a flooded field which have been just harvested and hold a great number of Black-headed and Lesser Black-backed Gulls, White Storks and Lapwings. A tractor was ploughing the field to mixed the remaining straw with the blackish clay and birds were tacking advantage of the smashed crayfish and frogs. There was a yellow track in good conditions running west along the field banks which I didn't know. I will still need a few more years to know every single track in an area of about 350 square kilometres of rice fields. Furthermore, I even find sometimes that new yellow tracks have been built on the inappropriate black clay tracks or some others have been dismantled so once you leave the main tracks you never know what you will find, a new adventure starts. We stopped the car by an old abandoned house with a staircase going up to a rooftop which looked very convenient to look over the area. We enjoyed good views of the area as well as of a small group of Grey Plovers in one of the flooded fields and found several Black Storks at different distances from the house. The track ended up going around a large extension of fields and back to the main track so the exploring was profitable.

A bit later I turned off the engine and stopped the car again to check a the reed beds in an old branch of the Guadalquivir River, the so called Brazo de la Torre, and the grassland next to it. We found a group of Purple Gallinules flying back into the reeds and several Common Snipes and Lapwings. I approached a thick patch of Tamarix to check for a Barn Owl that rusts there and as usually saw it flying away from it. When I was just about to go back with my clients I heard a long sharp call I am used to. I called Machteld and Geert to come and bring the telescope. We had very good views of several Penduline Tits playing around. When going back to the car we saw a flock of about 50 Glossy Ibis flying towards us; they flew over us and turn back to follow the line of reeds for several hundred meters; they turn back again and headed towards us once more to repeat the behaviour to turn back and disappear this time in the distance after taking land somewhere in the far reeds. Funny performance that gave us the chance not only to see well but to hear perfectly the sound of their wing beats.

Once we got to Cantarita we found a good rice field full of waders and saw there Little Stint, Dunlin, 1 Ruff and a group of Knot. Further inside we spotted an Osprey and one more later. A couple of Kingfishers flew away from us while crossing over ditches. It was getting late and we had not much light left so I decided to head back. On the way I drove off the main road to finish the day with several hundred Night Herons at their rust place.

That was a good day out and Machteld and Geert so told me when I took them back to the guest house.

 

OCTOBER 24th

  Magical sounds at night

Temperatures are going down at last, despite of not having had a specially hot summer, we were still having up to 30º some days and that made visibility in the marshes get worse from very early in the morning. These days we see often a beautiful background of sand dunes when looking South from the northern marshes and the elegant silhouette of Grazalema mountains to the East.

To the usual sound of the Barn Owls I enjoy every night from the bed room, during the last couple of weeks mainly I have to add the sound of the arriving flocks of Geese. There is plenty of magic in the sound of the Owls but a flock of Geese squawking while flying in formation during the night put me under a spell. Furthermore, for us, nature lovers in the area, that sound means the beginning of the birding year.

The early rain we had in September flooded the marshes next to El Rocío unusually soon this year and have kept also flooded the Caño Guadiamar which are the only two spots where aquatic birds have been concentrating during the end of the summer. Flamingos and Spoonbills can bee seen at both places, along with a good number of species of waders and ducks. A few Squacco Heron also move around the Mother of the Marshes. There are still a good number of House Martins flying around waiting for the right day to move south.

In the forests male Fallow Deer is still taking good efforts to keep their harems together and fulfil their reproductive tasks. Thrushes, Robins, Chiffchaffs, Black Redstarts and Common Starlings are back from the north. Some Wheatear and Whinchat were still passing last weeks through the marshes, where thousands of geese can be seen grassing and flying north east early in the morning in formations of different sizes towards Hato Raton Rice Fields where they can be seen by the hundred. Calandra and Skylark gather in flocks of hundreds or even thousands in the cereal fields while smaller flocks of Lesser Short-toed Larks and Meadow Pipits are common all over the Hinojos Marshes. Peregrine, Red Kite, Buzzard, Common Kestrel are becoming more abundant while the last Short-toed Eagle and Osprey are still around. Young Imperial Eagles have seen several times recently flying over different parts of the marshes during our tours. And of course flocks of Pintail Sandgrouse calling in flight with a bit of luck. Black Storks and Great White Egrets can also bee seen in the Caño Guadiamar as well as Tenmick's Stint.

Cranes are also coming back and they can be found normally somewhere around the cereal fields north of the Park

But an area that should not miss if you visit the area these days is the Rice Fields north of the Park. The harvest season attracts thousands of birds to the fields. Thousands of White Storks, Glossy Ibis and Gulls among the most common concentrate in the just harvested fields. Black Stork is also common around Isla Mayor Rice Fields. There is where we normally spend the second half of our full day tours, exploring the complicated net of tracks across the area.

Autumn is a good time to come and see the Park, good temperatures, plenty of sunny days and a very good number of species.

 

For previous reports go to the Reports page.

 

 

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